Vitamin A and Its Derivatives: The Gold Standard of Skincare

1 Sept

By Andria Jones, BS Biochemistry | MS Management & Leadership | Licensed Nail Tech

When it comes to skincare ingredients, few are as widely studied — or as effective — as Vitamin A. Often referred to as the gold standard in skincare, Vitamin A and its derivatives are known for their ability to improve skin texture, reduce visible signs of aging, and even support acne-prone skin. But with so many different forms (retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin, retinyl esters, and more), it can be confusing to know what each one does and how to use them.

Let’s break it down.

What is Vitamin A?

Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin that plays a crucial role in skin health. In skincare, it belongs to a family of compounds called retinoids. These retinoids work by increasing skin cell turnover and stimulating collagen production — two processes that slow down as we age.

The Different Forms of Vitamin A in Skincare

1. Retinyl Esters (Retinyl Palmitate)

The most gentle and stable form of Vitamin A.
Needs multiple conversions in the skin before becoming active (retinoic acid).
Best for sensitive skin or beginners.
2. Retinol

The most popular over-the-counter form.
Converts into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid in the skin.
Effective for smoothing fine lines, improving skin tone, and addressing early signs of aging.
3. Retinaldehyde (Retinal)

One step closer to retinoic acid than retinol.
Works faster than retinol but can still be gentler than prescription options.
Great for moderate signs of aging and acne-prone skin.
4. Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin, Isotretinoin, Adapalene, Tazarotene)

Available by prescription only (except adapalene, which is OTC in some strengths).
The most potent form because it doesn’t need conversion in the skin.
Highly effective for acne, hyperpigmentation, and advanced signs of aging — but often comes with more irritation.

Benefits of Vitamin A

Stimulates collagen production → reduces fine lines and wrinkles.
Boosts skin cell turnover → smoother texture and more even tone.
Helps regulate oil production → reduces clogged pores and breakouts.
Supports skin repair → improves the look of sun damage and pigmentation.

How to Use Vitamin A Safely

Start slow (2–3 nights per week) and increase as tolerated.
Always pair with sunscreen — Vitamin A makes your skin more sun-sensitive.
Use a moisturizer to minimize dryness or irritation.
Avoid mixing with strong exfoliants (like AHAs/BHAs) unless guided by a professional.

Next week, we’ll dive into Vitamin A concentrations and efficacy! I hope this helps a little :)

In beauty & chemistry,

Andria